Contents

1. General Information

   1. How Old Should a Person Be To Ride a Unicycle?
   2. What Are The Advantages Of Learning To Ride?
   3. How Long Does It Take To Learn To Ride?
   4. What's The Secret Of Learning To Ride?

2. Unicycles

   1. When Should I Buy My Own Unicycle?
   2. Where Can I Buy a Unicycle? How Much Does One Cost?
   3. Should I Get a Second Hand Unicycle?
   4. What Wheel Size Should I Buy?
   5. What Style Should I Buy?
   6. Parts Of The Unicycle
   7. General Terms

3. Popular Unicycle Tricks

   1. Unispins
   2. Unispin Hoptwists
   3. Hoptwists
   4. Shifty
   5. Common Flip Tricks
   6. Plants
   7. Stances

General Information

How old should a person be to ride a unicycle?

• Unicyclists can be any age from about 3 on up! It’s a fun sport for young and old alike.
• It’s usually more fun if someone else is learning at the same time you are. Get a friend, spouse, parent to learn with you.

What are the advantages of learning to ride?

• Unicycling is an extremely versatile sport. Riders can focus on distance riding, tricks, pairs riding, entertaining, racing, offroad riding, basketball, hockey, trials, groups, or even juggling while riding. Few other sports are as interesting or as broad.
• It’s good exercise.
• It’s challenging, and therefore rewarding.
• It’s relatively safe, since it doesn’t involve high speeds and the rider is usually in an upright position.
• It appeals to both males and females, and to all ages.
• It’s a lot of fun.

How long does it take to learn to ride?

• It takes the average person between 10 and 15 hours of concentrated practice to learn to ride.
• Some people learn faster, and some require much longer.
• It takes an additional few hours to learn to turn.
• Learning to freemount often takes several additional hours.

What’s the secret of learning how to ride?

• The secret of learning how to unicycle can be divulged in just three words:
  • Practice
  • Practice
  • Practice
• Also, riders suggest that you relax, sink into the unicycle seat, placing as much of your weight there as possible, and look ahead rather than down.
• Then practice, practice, practice and don’t give up.

Unicycles

When should I buy my own unicycle?

• If you can, it’s always better to try it out first, to see if unicycling is for you. Don’t expect to ride right away. It normally takes several hours to learn to ride.
• Once you make the decision, get a unicycle that’s just for you. Learning is easier on your own unicycle, and people rarely regret spending money on a unicycle.
• Good unicycles are durable and will last a lifetime. They are easy to transport and very handy to have on hand. Also, unicycles usually hold their value and are easily re-sold if necessary.

Where can I buy a unicycle? How much does one cost?

• A few cycling shops carry unicycles. Sometimes stores that carry juggling equipment also carry unicycles. Check around.
• You can order from Oddwheel in South Africa.
• You can order online from Unicycle.Com.
• Unicycles cost in the region of R600 for a beginner unicycle, up to R3000 for a MUni or 36". Even more if you order a Kris Holm for eg. online.
• Shop around.

Should I get a second-hand unicycle?

• Second-hand unicycles may be hard to find. Also, you don’t want a poor quality unicycle, which makes learning to ride even more difficult.

What wheel size should I buy?

• 12" wheel unicycle - For young children (4 to 7 years old) to first learn to ride, or as a trick cycle (looks great if you have big shoes!). It needs smooth ground and is not really suitable for outdoor riding.
• 16" wheel unicycle - This is a children's unicycle, the small wheel makes it only suitable for smooth areas. Best used indoors or on smooth ground; not so good outdoors especially if it is rough. Good for learning for 6 to 9 years old.
• 20" wheel unicycle - Traditionally the most popular size of unicycle. These are great indoor, they turn quick and the best size for tricks… the BMX of the unicycle world. They are great for unicycle hockey and basketball. Put a fatter tyre on it and use it for trials. Excellent for learning.
• 24" wheel unicycle - This is a common size for adult riders. Good for outdoors on paths, off-road and open areas although it can be a little bit big for indoors unless you have access to large hall or gym. The bigger wheel makes some more advanced tricks harder. A good learner machine. Good for Muni (Mountain Unicycling) and Trials with a big tyre.
• 26" wheel unicycle - This is a machine for Muni. If you are interested in off-road then this is what you need. These are also great street unicycles. Not really suitable for indoors.
• 29" wheel unicycle - This is a commuter and road riding sized wheel. The big wheel makes for a fast and smooth ride. You can also use this unicycle for off-road, especially if its fitted with a knobbly 29" tyre. For advanced riders.
• 36" wheel unicycle - The road unicycle. If you are a speed fiend then consider one of these, they are fast and smooth. Not a learners unicycle at all and not for indoors.

Having selected your unicycle's wheel size, check that you are tall enough to fit. Use the table below as a guide. These leg lengths are from crotch to the floor with shoes on, not your trouser length.

Note, these are approximate sizes only. If you are too tall to fit on a unicycle, a longer seat post will allow you to ride it.

What style should I buy?

There are many styles of unicycle because there are lots of different things that you can do with a unicycle. Here are some of the main ones.

• Learner - We use this term to describe unicycles suitable for beginner riders. These are generally the same as the freestyle unicycles but of a less heavy-duty nature.
• Trials - After the release of the UNiVERsE Video there has been an explosion of people who want to jump on and off picnic tables and ride along railings. Another fast growing area of unicycling. Trials unicycles have massive 2.5” wide tyres, special rims and strong hubs and cranks. Trials unicycles are also used for street riding.
• MUni - Unicycling off-road? Yes, indeed! 'MUni' is short for 'Mountain Unicycle' and is commonly applied to any off-road unicycle. Off-road unicycling is probably the fastest growing sector of unicycling in the world. MUnis have to be very strong and generally have big 3" tyres and longer cranks. MUni wheels are usually 24" or 26" and cranks are 150 to 175mm long.
• Freestyle - This is a term used to describe the unicycle competition where music, movement and a skill high level are mixed. The unicycles used are normally 20” (but not always) and have slick tyres.
• Road - Great for riding to work or school. They generally have larger wheels and proportionally shorter cranks. The 36" unicycle has a 36” tyre is capable of speed in excess of 32 km/h, ridden by an experienced rider. The Nimbus 29er is quite capable of exceeding 24km/h and can be ridden offroad as well as on sealed roads. These are not really learner machines and are for experienced riders.
• Giraffes - A giraffe is a tall unicycle which is driven by a chain. Giraffes are generally easier to ride than a standard unicycle after you have overcome the fear of being so high off the ground. Mounting a giraffe offers an interesting challenge. This said they are not for the beginner because falls may cause injuries.

Parts of the Unicycle

• Saddle - Seat.
• Seatpost - The tube that is attached to the saddle.
• Seatpost Clamp - The clamp that holds the seatpost at a certain height.
• Frame - The main section of the unicycle that holds it all together.
• Crown - The round or square place where the frame splits in two.
• Tire - Obviously the rubber "thing" on the wheel.
• Rim - The thing that is directly attached to the tire and spokes.
• Nipples - The tiny things that hold the spokes on the rim.
• Spokes - The 36 or 48 wire-like things that hold the wheel together.
• Hub - The cylindrical thing in the middle of the wheel that holds the spokes and cranks.
• Cranks - The arms that attach to the hub and hold the pedals.
• Square Taper - A type of hubs and cranks that are weaker than splined and have a square end.
• Splined - A type of hubs and cranks that have lots of splines that are stronger than square taper.
• Bearings - The round things that allow the wheel to roll.
• Bearing Holders - The clamp-like or lollipop-like devises on each bearing that holds the frame on.
• Lollipops - The less prefered weak bearing holders in the shape of a lollipop.
• Main Caps - The prefered, stronger bearing holders on each bearing in the shape of a clamp.
• Pedals - What you put your feet on.

General Terms

• UPD - UnPlanned Dismount.
• 29er - A 29 inch wheeled unicycle used for distance riding.
• Coker - A 36 inch wheeled unicycle for serious distance riding.
• Freestyle - A type of 20 inch unicycle and unicycle riding style that is like figure skating with a unicycle. It invlolves lots of skill and precision.
• Trials - A very strong, large-tired type of 20 inch unicycle and style of unicycle riding that involves jumping, hopping, gapping, and dropping.
• MUni - Short for Mountain Unicycling. It's a type of very strong 24-29 inch unicycle with a strong body and big, knobby tire and a style of riding where you ride off road.
• Distance - A type of unicycle that has a 26-36 inch wheel for going long distances.
• Giraffe - A type of unicycle that has a chain and is usually very tall.
• Street - A certain style of trials unicycling that is done more stylishly and is done in an urban enviroment.
• LBS- Local bike shop.
• WW - Wheel walk.
• BC - BC wheel, a wheel with no pedals or cranks. Just platforms on the ends of the axle. Named after the character in the BC cartoons who rides a stone wheel. Sometimes called an impossible wheel.
• UW - Ultimate Wheel. Like a unicycle with no frame or seat. Just a wheel and pedals.
• SIF - Seat In Front, riding with the seat in front of you, held with one or both hands.
• SIB - Seat In Back, riding with the seat behind you, held with one or both hands.
• XC - Cross country, a particular version of the KH MUni.
• KH - Kris Holm. KH24 is a Kris Holm 24 inch unicycle, for example.

Popular Unicycle Tricks

Unispins

• Unispin - The rider jumps off the pedals of the unicycle, spins the unicycle and then lands back either in the hop-on-wheel position or back onto the pedals. These are done in increments of 90 degrees ranging from 90 to 720. They are named by the amount of rotation. eg. 180 Unispin.
• X-up - An x-up is where the rider completes one 180unispin then another 180unispin in the reverse direction all in one jump.

Unispin Hoptwists

These are when a rider completes a hoptwist and a unispin simultaneously in the same direction. These are some common ones.

• Smallspin - 180 twist + 180unispin
• Bigspin - 180 twist + 360unispin
• Hugespin - 180 twist + 540unispin

Hoptwists

Hoptwists are an aerial maneuver where the rider jumps into the air and rotates. These are measured in increments of 180 degrees ranging from 180 to 540.

Shifty

The rider jumps and twists his unicycle 90 degrees while keeping his body in a riding position on the unicycle (keeping both feet on the pedals and the seat tucked underneath him). The rider then twists the unicycle back to its original position before landing on the ground. This trick is rather open-ended in that one can twist in any direction and the amount of twist is something of a personal preference. The main principle of the trick is a twist, not a spin; the rider always lands moving in the same direction from whence he came.

Common Flip Tricks

When riding, jumping and taking one's feet off the pedals will leave the wheel spinning. This prevents the pedals from being lined up when the feet are returned to them, making it very difficult to land. By flipping the wheel, the rider can control the amount of spin and land with the pedals lined up correctly. The development of flip tricks has allowed many unispin, twist, and no-footer combinations to be done down sets/gaps.

There are too many flip tricks to mention, because you can combine a crankflip with almost all other tricks; here are some common ones.

• Crankflip - This is the base to all flip tricks. The trick starts with a jump (from flat or off a ledge) and then in mid-air the rider pushes the front pedal. The wheel will then complete a full rotation before the rider lands with his feet in the same position as they were when the jump started.
• 180flip - A crankflip with a 180 degree jump twist.
• Doubleflip - The same as a crankflip but with two full rotations.
• Backflip - Same as a crankflip but the cranks spin backwards for a full rotation.
• Doubleback - This is a backflip with two full rotations.
• Sexchange - This is a crankflip with a bodyvarial.
• Hickflip - A crankflip with a 180unispin.
• TreyFlip - A 360unispin with a crankflip.
• FifthFlip - A 540unispin with a crankflip.
• Double Variants - A doubleflip incorporated into another flip trick. For example, a double flip sexchange, hick doubleflip or varial doubleflip.

Plants

• Footplant - The rider's foot leaves the pedal in mid-air, is planted on the obstacle, pushes off of the obstacle, then returns to the pedal. The rider lands and rides away normally.
• Wallplant - The rider rides quickly towards a wall. Using momentum and friction against the wall to stay airborne, the rider plants a hand and a foot on the wall before returning to the unicycle and riding away from the wall.
• Wallstall - This is similar to wallplant except the rider places both feet on the wall.
• Plants can be done in combination with some form of unispin.

Stances

• Natural - The stance in which a rider feels most comfortable jumping and tricking. The natural stance comes in two varieties: left or right foot forward. Both are self-explanatory. On average, more riders hop left foot forward.
• Switch - Switch stance is the opposite to one's natural stance; a regularly-footed unicyclist tricking with their right foot forward is riding in switch. This is difficult because the feet need to switch roles.
• Fakie - A rider is said to be riding fakie when he is in the natural stance but traveling backwards. From a difficulty perspective, it's slightly uncomfortable, but because the feet still perform the same roles as they naturally would, fakie is only slightly more difficult than riding normally.
• Switch Fakie - In this stance, one must ride backwards whilst performing all tricks with the opposite foot forward. It is commonly accepted as the most difficult stance to hop and pull tricks from, because it combines the difficulties of the other stances.
• Sideways - Riding the unicycle sideways in the "hopping standing on the wheel" position— that is, holding the seat tight with both hands, and one foot on each side of the frame.